Friday, March 29, 2013

#26 - Confidence


     It's the end of the month and that means pay day. That also means it's the perfect time to ask people for money. The accountant at work who takes care of everyone's pay personally distributed pay stubs yesterday. This is highly unusual. Attached to the pay stubs were envelopes that asked for a donation for a temple. The way that a Thai Buddhist asks for a donation is by saying, “Do you want to make merit?” Merit is the focus of nearly all Thai holidays and in fact is the focus of many Thais' decision to become monks. These merit based monkhoods are not lifetime commitments. The usual monkhood for a person not dedicating their life to the institution is three months although longer and shorter terms do exist. If you're at all confused simply think of it as giving your karma a boost. Give 100 baht to the temple, get good karma. That temples ask for money is not unusual. Every religious institution needs money. However I would like to relate to you the following events of last night so that you can judge for yourself what kind of influence this sort of institution or practice has on peoples actual corporeal selves and the “karma” they garner in the world.
This German dance troupe who came to Bangkok
was actually an Israeli and a German who met
in Amsterdam and an Australian they recruited.
It was an interesting show.
     We saw a dance performance and then went and got dinner and after that we flagged down a taxi to get our buts home and in bed. Not the most exciting Friday night but it was a long week of hard work. (Nana started at Binumi on Wednesday.) The taxi driver was older and it took him only a few blocks to ask Nana if she would like to make merit. I will translate that which has already been translated, “Do you want to donate to my temple?” Nana politely declined, after all she had already donated to Binumi's accountant's temple that very day. In order to accurately represent her donation I believe that you should all be informed she did this only to curry favor as Nana's role at the company requires close connections with everyone and this donation greatly increased her chances of establishing that connection with the accountant. Shortly after Nana's polite abstinence a phone began to ring. It was not mine nor Nana's and the taxi driver didn't flinch. The phone was sitting in the backseat floorboard, an iphone complete with bunny ear case and all. I picked it up and Nana asked the taxi drive what to do and he said not to answer it. Nana decided that was a bad idea and answered the phone. It was of course the previous occupant of the taxi. She was at a club right next to where we caught the taxi. We were by this point halfway home and so going back was not something we were interested in. The taxi driver suggested that the owner of the phone could pay him the metered fare to take the phone back to her. This fare sounded quite fair, if not even a nice gesture. What a kind old man. Nana handed him the phone and he said he could go back to Ekkamai but not all the way to where the woman who owned the phone was. Ekkamai is about 80-90% of the way to where she was. If she wanted him to go the extra little bit to where she was it would cost her 200 baht. Our entire fare to go from where this woman was to our apartment was 71 baht. How in the hell did he figure that extra 10% was worth 129 baht? I know how he thought it was worth it. He had her iphone, literally almost a months full pay not to mention the contacts, pictures, videos and all the other personal information one can pry out of these mini diaries we carry around with us. This kindly old man who was collecting donations for his temple, himself proposing only the opportunity for you to make good on your karma was in fact completely unconcerned with karma or as I prefer to call it, “Being a decent fucking human being.” He wanted MONEY. We paid our fare at the apartment and he pulled out bills and said he had no change, he would squable with me over 9 baht and so I overpaid him a little just to get out of the cab.
     Where religious institutions and wealth intersect there is a problem. They extort and blackmail people into giving them money and then turn this confidence scam over to their victims who then perpetuate the scam onto others around them and very quickly we have the greatest pyramid sceme ever conceived of in human history.
Flyer from a Butoh dance show I saw
Flyer from a Butoh dance show I saw
     On a much brighter note Nana's performance in “The Giordano Bruno Project” was absolutely splendid, and a Catholic organization (the same organization that burned Mr. Bruno at the stake) donated boxes upon boxes of proseco to the show in an effort to help the Camillian home, which provides a place for disabled and HIV positive children to grow up in a community where they are neither stigmatized nor shamed for things they have no control over.
     So what do we have? Is it Buddhism vs. Catholicism, West vs. East, Prohibition vs. Boozers...no. We have organization and the power that comes with that organization. Institutions that can flex their muscle in the millions and who's budgets measure in the billions and who's actual worth is in the trillions which need only become populated by people who actually want to make good on their promises to help humanity. Or we can start small. We can make each other feel confident that we're not here to ply with confidence tricks. We can accept a decent fair to bring a girl her phone who (I hope) paid her fair fare to get where she was going.  



The Pridi Banomyong Institute's Envlace on a night where two performances
will be viewed. I went to the Butoh performance on this night. 

Saturday, March 2, 2013

#25 - Singapore


How peculiar that one month after meeting a former resident and rather jovially critical fellow who resided for many years in Singapore I find myself on those very shores.

My first impression of the city state was a rather two faced one when the presentation of the strict values that dictate so much of its laws came quickly and rather squarely in conflict with the realities of a wealthy citizenry. The woman back at the office who booked my hotel had managed to put me smack dab in the midst of twenty-four hour eateries, late night karaoke clubs and street side beer vendors, that's right folks I was staying in the red light district.

To quote the football firebrand Mario Balloteli who's as likely to rally against racism as he is to get in a fist fight with his manager, “Why always me?” Well, what else was I to do but take a two am jaunt around the neighborhood to see my temporary neighborhood in its finest hour?

The whole of Singapore appeared to present itself in a very secular way, but this shabby looking neighborhood had a real and definite poor Muslim feel to it. Nearly every shop featured a crescent and star somewhere on its front and the meticulous manicuring and fastidiously cleaned buildings and streets I had seen on the way to my hotel had disappeared to make way for the grimy sky walks and dilapidated store fronts one would expect to see in the south side of Chicago or the Arab neighborhoods just off Las Ramblas.

I wouldn't call these people friendly but they were accommodating. At one point I found myself watching a football match surrounded by Singaporeans of every color when a trio of scantily clad ladies emerged from a doorway just beneath the television. It was at this point that I realized that the TV I was watching was placed directly above the domicile of these ladies of the night and that there must have existed some relationship between this all night coffee shop and the housing establishment that seemed to be a strictly ladies only club. I never saw a man either enter or leave through this entrance or in fact the building as a whole. And of course sure enough there was a collection of no less than a dozen women speaking with equal parts coy flirtatiousness and self assured salesmanship to a collection of men that came and went and grew and shrank but never seemed to outnumber the women. I don't mean to either glorify or belittle the people employed in the business of prostitution, only to show it as it appeared to my eyes. I woke four hours after I had laid down in my hotel bed and quickly departed for an embassy who's location I only vaguely understood. If last night was Singapore all stuble-faced and scruffy then this morning was Singapore clean shaven and ready for work.

Chinese new year decorations in a mall


Once the day had just begun to depart I ventured out again. I was determined to find a good watering hole and meet some locals, or at least be near them and observe. The previous night I had drank only one beer and then swore it was my first and last as its price was just over double the price I would have paid for the same beer back in Thailand and nearly ten times the price I pay for my usual swill. However, earlier in the day I sat myself in a coffee shop on the main drag in Singapore to do some work and found that I was paying just a couple bucks less for the coffee than I had for the beer I'd so prematurely sworn off the night before. So...as you could probably guess I ended up drinking Thai beer (it's the cheapest) and loving every minute of it.

The perfect meal...wait, where's the beer? Waiter!


So that evening I found myself eating and drinking and watching a “Celestial Classic Movie.” The subtitles were all very clear except that they kept saying heck this and heck that and I'm from heck and that monster's from heck and all of the sudden it occurred to me that you can't say the word hell (in English) on Singaporean television. You probably can't say it in Malay or Mandarin either but Japanese I suppose is ok as it didn't sound like there was any censorship of the Japanese in the movie. Overall the movie was a riot (even though I'm sure it was intended to be a thriller) as it came complete with a wooden body double for the heroine that was eaten by the demons and old school Japanese martial arts choreography for all the fight scenes. I'm sure Kurosawa rolls over in his grave every time anyone watches that movie.

The next day I picked up my passport and settled down in a coffee shop to do some more work when another thought occurred to me. I hadn't seen a single cop anywhere. No police cars, no police motorcycles, no signs marking police territory (as is very important to maintain corruption in Thailand) no bike cops, horse cops or cops walking the beat in the busy retail districts or shady red light districts. Where were the police? To quote a very sarcastic segment of an Omali Yeshitela speech (thank you Dead Prez) “...I can tell you well you know you've got to have the police, because if there were no police...uh look at what you'd be doing to yourselves, you'd be killing yourself if there were no police...” If I were to continue that quote it would say something along the line of police only become necessary where crime exists. Just for fun lets draw some parallels between Singapore and a city in the US, Chicago.

                                                                                  Singapore              Chitown

Population:                                                      4.5 million             2.7 million
Singapore is sixty percent bigger

Civilians per police staff:                                          360                    190
Chicago has nearly twice as many cops per civilian

Acronyms:                                                                     SPF                      CPD
Singapore has a cooler acronym

Budget in USD:                                                   1 billion               1.3 billion
Singapore's police budget is thirty percent smaller

Homicides in 2008:                                                     8                        513
Hmmmmm...no explanation needed.

In summary Singapore's combination of a social safety net and frighteningly strict punishments probably does a pretty sweet job of making sure that Singaporeans don't commit violent crime. For example you can get the death penalty for firing a gun, even if no one is injured. On a side note they also have been consistently listed as one of the most restrictive countries when it comes to freedom of speech.

There certainly is crime in Singapore it's just nothing that will get you killed...or hurt...or really anything. While I was in Singapore the big thing that was happening was that the government was up in arms because it had noticed a slight uptick in traffic accidents and people needed to start driving more courteously. I wonder if they shouldn't take a taxi ride in New York sometime and then re-evaluate the safety of their roads.

*                    *                    *

I began this blog post on the day of my arrival in Singapore (Feb 3rd) and have just now (Feb. 22nd) managed to pick it up again. I attribute this not to laziness nor lack of motivation but to my work. When I was working at the French restaurant in Oakland there were weekends when I would work a Friday night shift then a double on Saturday and a double on Sunday which amounts to about thirty-five or forty hours in a three day span. That was something that happened a couple times a year. With Binumi I've been consistently putting in ten hour days and this week in particular did fourteen hours on Saturday and then fourteen more on Monday. I've also performed in two performance art shows over the last couple weeks and before that was deeply embroiled in the process of creating Survival Games. I have no idea when I'll find the time to write to you all again and ponder the meaning of life because if the website doesn't kick off and become successful I'll be working my ass off trying to make it successful and if it does kick off and become successful I'll be working my ass of trying to keep up with the new demands that will come with success. Oh what a conundrum.


I'm not the only one whose busy though. Nana is directing an opera, creating and performing in a show slated for a series of performances in Italy in July and now spending her mornings trying to keep me and a host of other nutters at the website organized. Oh yeah, she also recently found out she's listed on IMDB.