When you walk into Siam Paragon, Siam
Center, or MBK, the metal detectors or bomb sensors or whatever they
are will probably be flashing at you with a bright red hand that I
can only assume is a signal to stop, no one does though. These
massive city like malls that fall somewhere between casino and flea
market in design seem relatively unconcerned that nine out of ten
people set their alarms off. The security guards pull people aside
and search bags but I can't say that I've ever seen someone go
through one of these portals to consumerism without setting it off.
Why do they have them if they never stop alerting you to the
supposedly dangerous elements entering your shopping center? Like so
many other things in Thailand there is little sense to be made by us.
My friend Adam got pulled over on his
motorbike while his girlfriend was on the back. He has no license,
which is not unusual in Bangkok and after a little conversation with
Adam's Thai girlfriend the officer informed them that they had to go
to the police station to pay a one-hundred baht fine. They said they
didn't have time and the officer offered to take the fine right there
and then to save them the time. They paid and then went down to the
end of the street and made an illegal U turn before heading back the
way they came. They passed a different officer on that side of the
road who tried to flag them down but they yelled to him that they had
been stopped by the cop on the other side of the street already and
the officer waved them on. I don't need to tell you that the fine
never made it to the police station.
My boss Lee hurt his foot rather badly
and chose to fore go a plaster cast, after a few days he could tell
that it wasn't right and he went back to have a cast put on. He
returned to the doctor and after a confirmation of his suspicions a
lengthy conversation ensued between them. The doctor seemed to be
convinced that there had been some other accident that had happened
after his initial visit. Lee assured him that nothing had happened
to it but the doctor kept on insisting. Finally the doctor explained
to him that if he had slipped in the bathtub and injured his foot
again then he could bill the insurance company for it and any time
they billed the insurance company they charged double what they would
charge a private party. So Lee could pay four-thousand baht or the
insurance company could pay eight. Now I understand why they tell us
at work that if we go to the doctor for anything we should tell them
we want to stay over night, otherwise they can't bill the insurance
company, and they really, really want to. No one in Thailand denies
this goes on, it simply is the way things are.
I know a teacher at a school outside
of Bangkok who was fired for drinking on the job. He was not, of
course, drinking on the job. However the culture of saving face
would not permit his superiors to admit they'd made a mistake by
hiring someone with too thick of a South African accent, an accent
that is definitely not sought after in Thailand. Another peculiar
example of the saving face culture, are the people at my company who
manage the relationship between the company and the schools. One of
my schools has been continually uncooperative throughout the
semester. They change our room and don't tell us, they give us no
room at all, they bring our students late and then remove them from
class without warning, we teach with other classes going on in the
background or in the middle of the library while copy machines and
activities cause constant distractions in the background. Our school
manager had spoken to them about this but nothing was changed. She
wouldn't go to her boss though because then it would look as though
she couldn't do her job, or the school would become upset with the
company and try and place the blame on our school manager and she
would again be seen as incompetent. There is no reward in this
culture for stepping forward and admitting a mistake, it is seen as a
damning admission of failure. Even my adults that I teach business
English to at night cheat when we play games in class, for the life
of me I can't fathom how this is so easily accepted, and even
expected.
Despite all this there are still some
people and students that operate on a level of morality and respect
that I find amazing. These people are few and far between though, it
seems that like many religions the Buddhist philosophy of karma only
applies when it serves ones own interests. However there is an
explanation of another phenomenon that stems from Buddhist philosophy
I find quite interesting. Homosexuality is not seen positively in
this country for the most part. The city of Bangkok may be a more
tolerant place then most but Thailand is staunchly against
homosexuality especially when it comes to the upper strata of
society. Because of this many gay men choose to become women. At
first this seemed like a silly thing to me, but when the ideas of
Buddhist philosophy and particularly reincarnation are brought to
bear on the idea it becomes much more clear. In Buddhism there is no
infallible creator who chooses the body you are put into, as a result
you could very well be reincarnated into a body of the wrong gender.
A family is much more accepting of a straight woman than a gay man,
even if that woman used to be a man.
Now a quick funny story about a visa
run.
Martin went on a visa run to Cambodia
and as with all visa runs it seems he met a few very unusual
individuals. This particular one was an American who was a truck
driver, but not just any kind of truck driver, he drove trucks
through war zones. He was on vacation for a few months and he was
staying here in Thailand. He told Martin and another girl who was
Filipino about how the women in Thailand had been quite cruel to him
on his previous visits but on this latest visit he had reunited with
an old girl he had dated and she had bore his son after his last
visit, a son which he was now helping to take care of. After talking
for a bit he showed Martin and the girl a photo of his child and the
Filipino girl, knowing at this point that the American spoke no Thai,
said in Thai, “Oh god that is not a farangs baby.” Martin was in
agreement though they spoiled no ones secrets that day.
Cherrio folks, and whenever you see a metal detector think of me and how useless it's Thai counterpart is.
I asked my kids to draw elephants on the board, this is what I got. That little mark above the one on the left is the kids signature.
I think I enjoy the tales of other people's (mis-) adventures better; more like this please! :)
ReplyDeletethanks so much for sharing stories about your adventures! Love, Mom
ReplyDeletethis is fascinating stuff Adam!!! thank you for the stories :D
ReplyDeleteCould you have discovered the secret of why Bangkok seems to be the transsexual capital of the world? Just fascinating! It's also interesting to see how many ways Thailand is as messed up at the U.S. Bravo!
ReplyDelete